Al on the Go: Return leg part 1

On me way back starting today, and I'm heading for St Quentin to stay at a hotel in the town centre that I've stayed a a few times - le Florence.

Only a couple of hours if I do it straight through, but if I do that then I might as well get home in a oner, but I'm taking it steady (sharp intakes of breath from Nige & Steve) , a bit of motorway down to Metz then head west on the D603 to Verdun. I'm going to spend a few hours at Verdun checking out the forts etc. as it was a flying visit in May.

A cracking day weather wise and I'm away from Mike & Lynne at the River Valley by 09:15. I've measured my fuel stop to perfection and I squeeze 25 litres of Luxembourgs finest and cheap 'sans plomb 95' as the E44 crosses the border at Wasserbillig.

Off the autoroute around Metz and on to Verdun and Fort Vaux - I pay for the tour and have and hour or so with the natty little iPod they give you that gives you all the commentary plus pics and video excerpts. Good value at 4 euros or 6.50 if you want to visit Fort Douamont as well ( I'll leave Douamont for another day)

Fort Vaux

Main Gallery inside the fort

Next up is over to the Ossuary, and this time I go up to the top of the central tower for the view of the battlefield, and get to see the film show explaining it all.

Up to the top you go, stairs all the way, not recommended in all weather bike togs which turn into your own personal sauna 2/3 of the way up.

one of the views out of the top windows, looking SE with Fort Vaux in the forest to the left of the pic and Verdun itself away to the right of the pic

Around the corner is the Bayonet Trench, - interesting story behind this but I think it has a whiff of a myth about it. Apparently a squad of soldiers were waiting to go over the top with bayonets fixed, got shelled and buried & killed in the trench where they stood and all anyone could see was a dozen or so bayonets sticking out the ground.

Trenchee des Baionnettes - when first opened, the bayonets stuck out next to the crosses, but over time they've been nicked/rusted away/ replaced with replicas, but now only the crosses remain.

Got to say it looks like the entrance to an underground carpark over the actual trench - horrible cast concrete monstrosity.

~~Car park~~ Concrete cover over the trench

By now I've been there for about 3.5 hours so time getting on and another 2 hours or so to St Quentin and the A26 beckons. Ok it's quiet on the road and I can crack on but its peage, cost a few euros and I'm bored so drop off onto the Rn roads after Reims and hit traffic with the rest of the skin flints - however French drivers expect bikes to overtake and filter so give you room as soon as you appear behind them and I'm making good progress and the scenery and towns are interesting even if the roads are just as straight as the autoroute.

These D roads are the same all over France - the D1044 coming into St Quentin

Get to St Quentin for around 18:30 after popping into Laon for something to eat ( knew somewhere to go after May visit)

Showered and out for a drink. Doing this blog in the town square sat outside Le Carillon with a glass of La Chouffe. Its occurred to me that beer is expensive in France and and I should take the hint and drink the wine in future.

Ferry at 13:30 tomorrow so time for a quick look at something or other if I get me finger out.

I've just wandered into another bar and they have wifi ( bar de l'avenir) so I'll have another draught Leffe blond and publish this - I'll stick some pics up from my camera later when I get back to hotel .

Udate - back in the hotel for 21:45 as France seems to shut down around nine and I've broken out the last of the emergency grog - a bottle of Kwak.