Monday, 20 September 2010

Day 4 - the little ferry, Neptunes staircase, and a ferry to the pub

Self catering for breakfast - so its a coffee, oatmeal bars and a mars bar, with the option of packet soup! We're on the road for nine-ish and follow the coast north and around. Its only then that I think that the road looks familiar and if theres a folk museum around the corner then I must have been here before when I came up in 1986 on the old Norton. Sure enough, thatched cottages appear on the left!!
Heading south, and time for a breakfast stop at a cafe in Broadford. At the petrol station we chat to a French guy who's on a scooter - lambretta or some such. Its wet, he's wearing a sort of anorak,open face helmet, waterproof leggings, suede ankle boots and has knapsacks hanging off the scooter all dripping wet, but he's grinning ear to ear as he tells us it's taken him 5 days to ride up from Dover!!
We decide to get off Skye by way of the little Kylerhea/Glenelg ferry as the road to it and after it is very scenic. The ferry itself is an experience on its own and deserves support.
From Glenelg to Glen Shiel, past the Cluanie Inn and along to Invergarry before heading towards Fort William. However, we turn off at the Commando Memorial to pick up the route of the Caledonian Canal and follow that to Banavie to have a look at the series of 8 locks known as Neptunes Staircase, apparently the longest series of locks in the UK and finished in the 1850s.

Getting near to lunchtime and so we decide to head along the 'road to the isles' towards Mallaig and pop into the Glenuig Inn for a bite to eat and to check out the newly finished bunkhouse and refurbishment that had been going on last time we stayed. Must say that its been done to a very high standard and a few bob has been spent. The owner recognised us and let us have a look at the accomodation - I think he thought we were going to stay, but we were just passing through heading for Corran tonight.

We've stayed before at the bunkhouse at Corran Ferry about 3 years ago - its excellent with all rooms ensuite with TV etc and only £16 each. Last time we were there, the pub next door was crap so this time we go back across on the ferry to the Ardgour Inn for a meal and a drink. The ferry is free for foot passengers but the last one back is at 21:30ish, so we come back over and give the Corran Ferry Hotel another go. The bar is a lean to tin shed built onto the back of the hotel, but its a nice liitle boozer. According to the barman (who we couldn't shut up) theres been a change of owner, but apparently the last one pissed off the locals big style and some are still not coming in. The beers cheaper and the foods cheaper than across the water at the Ardgour so with hindsight we should have given it a go first.

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