Day 5 - heading south

Staying in a B&B tonight in Langholm down in the borders. Nige has been before and its run by a guy with a bike who lets you stick your own bike in his garage - Border House.

But we've got to get there first so its through Glencoe and down to Tyndrum, stop for brekkie at the Green Welly then down past Loch Lomond and back over the Erskine Bridge. We trace our steps from the way up, but this time cut across east just after Sanquhar to go over the top through Wanlockhead. We pick up the 'old' road that runs parallel to the A74(M) and get to Moffat for tea time. Get talking to a couple of Irish lads as we park up who recommend the Balmoral Hotel - they weren't wrong and its some decent snap to see us through.

Minor roads to Lockerbie and across to Langholm. After awash & brush up its out for a pint or two and some more eats for Nige - Al is cheap to run and only requires feeding once a day or so.

Across the road from the B&B is the Buck Hotel - football on the tv, its a local boozer but just us in tonight so we only have the one pint and then off to find some more life, but we find the Douglas Hotel instead- which is ok and has food on. Couple more pints, watch more footy then back to the B&B and kip.

Up the next morning and A's gone by 09:00, Nige taking it more leisurely as he only has to get to Heysham.
Al plans to avoid the motorway as much as possible and follows the A7 to the M6 and soon get off at J42 to follow the old A6 all the way down through Penrith, but back onto the M6 at Shap, quick fuel stop at Tebay services and off at J36 to get home in Lincoln via Skipton, Halifax,M62, A1. Not and enjoyable route, but there you go.

So, another 1500 mile or so trip. A lot of wet weather, and the highlight being the stay in the lighthouse. We averaged about £20 each per night overall for rooms - 3 out of the five providing breakfast as part of the deal, with the B&B in Langholm being the most expensive at £30 each!!!(still not a bad price to be honest)

Plans afoot for next years trips - annual trip to Scotland, maybe one to Spain and maybe one to Norway later on, plus the Round Britain Rally again. Just got to wait the 12 weeks or so until the crappy weather finishes.

Day 4 - the little ferry, Neptunes staircase, and a ferry to the pub

Self catering for breakfast - so its a coffee, oatmeal bars and a mars bar, with the option of packet soup! We're on the road for nine-ish and follow the coast north and around. Its only then that I think that the road looks familiar and if theres a folk museum around the corner then I must have been here before when I came up in 1986 on the old Norton. Sure enough, thatched cottages appear on the left!!
Heading south, and time for a breakfast stop at a cafe in Broadford. At the petrol station we chat to a French guy who's on a scooter - lambretta or some such. Its wet, he's wearing a sort of anorak,open face helmet, waterproof leggings, suede ankle boots and has knapsacks hanging off the scooter all dripping wet, but he's grinning ear to ear as he tells us it's taken him 5 days to ride up from Dover!!
We decide to get off Skye by way of the little Kylerhea/Glenelg ferry as the road to it and after it is very scenic. The ferry itself is an experience on its own and deserves support.
From Glenelg to Glen Shiel, past the Cluanie Inn and along to Invergarry before heading towards Fort William. However, we turn off at the Commando Memorial to pick up the route of the Caledonian Canal and follow that to Banavie to have a look at the series of 8 locks known as Neptunes Staircase, apparently the longest series of locks in the UK and finished in the 1850s.

Getting near to lunchtime and so we decide to head along the 'road to the isles' towards Mallaig and pop into the Glenuig Inn for a bite to eat and to check out the newly finished bunkhouse and refurbishment that had been going on last time we stayed. Must say that its been done to a very high standard and a few bob has been spent. The owner recognised us and let us have a look at the accomodation - I think he thought we were going to stay, but we were just passing through heading for Corran tonight.

We've stayed before at the bunkhouse at Corran Ferry about 3 years ago - its excellent with all rooms ensuite with TV etc and only £16 each. Last time we were there, the pub next door was crap so this time we go back across on the ferry to the Ardgour Inn for a meal and a drink. The ferry is free for foot passengers but the last one back is at 21:30ish, so we come back over and give the Corran Ferry Hotel another go. The bar is a lean to tin shed built onto the back of the hotel, but its a nice liitle boozer. According to the barman (who we couldn't shut up) theres been a change of owner, but apparently the last one pissed off the locals big style and some are still not coming in. The beers cheaper and the foods cheaper than across the water at the Ardgour so with hindsight we should have given it a go first.

Day 3 - Around the coast to Skye

A leisurely breakfast and a steady start to the morning - I suspect more than expected amounts of emergency wine found its way outside of the box and inside of Nige. We aim to be at Applecross for lunchtime and are following the road around the coast to get there rather than going over the Bealch na Ba - we'll do that from west to east for a change. Weathers not the best as its overcast and drizzling, which is the worst kind when on a bike as your visor doesn't clear very well and you end up riding with it up. The best kind of rain to ride in (if there is a best!) is proper rain drops which seem to hit and break up, the wind flow keeping your vision reasonably good. All my other wet gear is keeping me dry, even the gloves which is just as well as I haven't brought the lobster claws (rainoff overgloves that steve finds so funny - "they're not right"). Nige is getting pissed off with the drizzle as its getting into the inside of his visor and helmet - and he doesn't like a wet helmet.......apparently. Applecross appears as the weather clears and dries out and its a stop for fish & chips in the Applecross Inn. It's a day out for the Jaguar Owners club as well today as there's more than a dozen or so parked up and more keep coming & going. Couple of £100K in the car park I reckon if you add it all up.

Up and over the pass and its not worth stopping at the top as you can't see 100yds because of the mist. I've been up this pass probably 7 or 8 times and only twice could I see anything from the top, and one of those times it was so windy you could hardly stand up.

The mist cleared as soon as we started going down the hairpins and you could see clear down the pass to Loch Kishorn - the father-in-law worked on building oil rigs in the early eighties at Kishorn and used to regale us with tales of the 'wacky races' down to Fort William in his 3ltr Granada when they went home on leave on a Friday - did a full days work then home to Newark in one, then did the same in reverse on Sunday evening.

Final destination today is Flodigarry up on the north Skye. Nice steady run to Portree even allowing for crazy white van man tailgating us at 80, passing us a 90+ and then getting himself stuck behind traffic, which we pass no bother and which then seems to send him even more crazy as his passing antics in my mirror are anything to go by. he doesn't catch us up again but I'd already decided to slow and let him go if he did - the further away nutters like that are from me the better. North from Portree we're on the Trotternish peninsula and at Flodigarry, the hostel is right next to a posh hotel overlooking Staffin Bay.

The couple running the place are very welcoming and friendly - its a big place very reminiscent of Inchnadamph and only half a dozen of us in there tonight. Shower and changed, and across the field to the hotel next door for some food and a drink - very expensive and full of americans. We get talking to one group on the balcony outside, and as it happens you can see the light from Rubha Reidh lighthouse to the north east across about 25 miles of water. The yanks are grateful for the inside info on what to see and recommendations on where to go, but less so when they find out that what we've paid for five nights is less than what they've paid for one night in the hotel!!! Jaws dropped even further when we told them that we stayed in the lighthouse that was winking in the distance and it cost us less than the price for two steaks - photos on iphone to prove!!

Back to the hostel and we break out the emergency wine box again as we get chatting to a Kiwi couple on a round the world trip - Ally & Bryan, 3 months or so into a 7 month trip having done the US and South America and now doing Europe.

Day 2 - Hairy Coos, fishladder and a lighthouse

Cooked breakfast included this morning and Nige has planned the route and activities for today. First off its to the Falls of Dochart at Killin, then up and over Ben Lawers and Glen Lyon, ending up at Pitlochry to have a look at the fish ladder and hydro station followed by a spot of lunch in Pitlochry itself.

Going over Ben Lawers, it gets a bleak and you expect sheep wandering around who look harmless and generally dont cause a problem. However, when you notice cowpats on the road, you start to wonder what's around the next bend. We expected a few cows - but this is Scotland, and the cows in the highlands have long shaggy coats, big long horns and like the feel of tarmac under their hooves. Threading your way past them was interesting to say the least.

We make Pitlochry, check out the fishladder at the hydro station and then head into town for lunch. The plan is then to bang on up the A9 to Inverness and then head west along Strath Ban and along to Gairloch where we head North for 12 miles to Rubha Reidh where we're staying at the lighthouse for the night. The rain catches us up on the A9 and stays with us for 140 miles all the way to Gairloch, when it suddenly clears and its a lovely evening!!

Its the usual single track road towards the lighthouse for 8 miles or so, and then theres 4 miles of even smaller single track to the lighthouse itself which is interesting with some blind 1:3 ramps to launch yourself up hoping nothings coming the other way.

But its well worth the trip as the lighthouse is stunning and by far one of the most interesting places we've stayed. Its a working light, but the keepers accomodation block is now a hostel.

As it happens, there was a group on bikes from Elgin staying as well and they were good company. Mostly couples and they had arranged a murder mystery weekend to occupy themselves for the night complete with dressing up, wigs, props etc. There isn't anything else except the lighthouse for 12 miles so we brought our own beer and food. The place will cater if you ring ahead, but your own booze is essential and Nige had to break out his emergency wine box. Incredibly, a night in this place only cost £34 for both of us including a full cooked breakfast.

Scotland..........again!!

Up to the North West of Scotland again for a last fling before the really bad weather and lack of holidays from work curtails the bike riding.

We're a man down as Steve has just got a new bike and is not going to put the first 1500 miles on it in the wilds of the far North - his last new bike needed a new gearbox after 1000 miles.

So its the usual routine, meet Nige at Southwaite then up to Crianlarich for the first night. We decided to head north and avoid motorways were possible choosing to cut across to Dumfries and take the A712 and A713 to Ayr, then Irvine , Dalry, Paisley, over the Erskine Bridge and along Loch Lomond to Crianlarich where we are staying at the Ben More Lodge.

Now we've stayed in better, but not any worse than this bunkhouse. To be fair, the adjacent bar was o.k - locals & live music - but the bunkhouse was a shed....literally. The new owner was so embarrassed at its condition that he gave us some free beer. I said not to worry too much, he could put his lawn mower back in it when we had gone.

Alps 2010

20th June to 26th June saw us on our annual trip to the mountains.

A good trip, but a drag getting there and back as we elected to stop half way at Troyes rather than doing it in one go. Lost two days in the mountains by doing so!!! Hotel in Troyes was crap, Troyes was crap, the people in Troyes were crap and I guess you get the impression I wasn't too impressed with Troyes - nice in parts but mainly a dump in our opinion.

Based ourselves in Briancon and rented an apartment through the internet direct with the owner. Fantastic place and very reasonably priced. Weather good - too good on the way back with us stopping every hour or so to cool off by soaking our T shirts and then putting them on under the bike gear. Nice to do the passes again, and went to some places we hadn't been before but I think it's time for a change next year - Dolomites or Pyrenees methinks.

Alps 2010

Day,1

For me the trip starts with the morning boat from the Isle of Man over to Liverpool, a smooth crossing and a couple of bacon sandwiches later I’m off the dock and on my way over to Yorkshire to see my parents and some family members. A few hours later I make my excuses & leave and head south to Lincoln. My overnight lodging courtesy of Al & Jeanette.

After a couple of pints of Guinness it’s off to the Chinese for some nosh, and then kip.

The following morning we’re up and as we’re getting the bikes ready Steve arrives and the trip proper can begin.

Spring Highland Tour day 6 - going home

All going our separate ways today - Nige back to IoM, the other two back to North Lincs.
Al's had enough of motorways so heads South via A689 to Alston and then a great run along the B6277 to Middleton in Teesdale only interrupted by a classic looking Ferrari (246?) trying to do a U turn to get back to his mate in a Aston Martin parked up a mile or so further on. Don't seem to have much of a turning circle these classic cars. Stop for an ice cream in Barnard Castle before getting the A1 at Scotch Corner. Blue skies and sunshine all the way.
All together a 1700 mile round trip and mostly lucky with the weather as we seemed to miss the rain actually falling.
We averaged £21 per night each for accomodation ranging from £13 to £35 each, all but one included a breakfast, with half of them the fully cooked variety - you don't get breakfast included for £13!!. Accomodation secretary did well with his selection, and we'd go back to any of them.

Next up is the Alps again at the end of June - a first for Nige - and another Scotland trip end of September unless we think of something different
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Spring Highland Tour day 5 - she's lost her head.

Long day on the bikes today as we're heading down to Dumfries and it's a bit of a slog - Inchnadamph to Inverness, then A9 to Stirling, and M74 to Dumfries.
First stop is for fuel & a late breakfast at Morrisons near Alness, then banging on down the A9 again where we manage to leave Steve behind - traffic's heavy and we're overtaking alot to make progress. A quick text and we're back together again at the Stirling services were Steve has managed to arrive first and has had fish & chips and a drink - the other two had a detour into Perth to get fuel for Nige and Steve must have gone by then.
We're staying at the Mabie House Hotel tonight - managed to get a suite - very nice. The three windows on the middle floor are ours for the night!!

We spend the rest of the evening in the hotel & bar, food very good and guiness on draught. The one downside was this thing in the sitting room - we only saw it as we started going back to our room and gave us the creeps. As it happens, no bumps or screams in the night.

Spring Highland Tour day 4 - the bride

Looking out the bedroom window of the lodge first thing in the morning, and the deer are at the back door. There's a herd of about twenty wandering around, and we clocked them last night in the field between the lodge & hotel, and earlier over the road by the church. Think of sheep wandering about on the moors, but these are wilder and much ,much bigger.

Big loop further north and back to Inchnadamph is whats happening today. First stop is only just up the road about 10 miles and it's the Kylesku Bridge. Interesting memorial to the men of the 12th Submarine Flotilla who trained in this area for the X craft attack on the Tirpitz. Bit of a bonus that memorial as I didn't know it was there (viewpoint car park on the north side of the bridge) and I had just finished reading a book about the X craft attacks a few weeks ago and recognised some of the names on it.

Then something you don't see everyday- a bride & groom appeared - it was 10 o'clock on a Sunday morning. Next thing a photographer appears and they start taking pictures. Curiosity aroused we ask if they just got married, but as it happens the wedding was 6 months ago and they were taking wedding snaps in unusual locations all the way up the coast. Steve reckons something else was going on along the lines of a publication for men in trench coats with an unhealthy wedding fetish. They eventually saw the bikes and convinced Steve to let them use his for some of the pics. Bride hops on and we're all waiting for her to burn her legs or melt her dress on the hot exhaust or something, but nothing happened. Anyhow they took their pics and off they went.

Interesting and bleaker scenery as we head to Durness, which has the only petrol station for 25 miles and it's shut as it's a Sunday. Not a problem for me as I've got 2/3 of a tank left - 200 miles - and the other two are not too badly off as we will be passing through Lairg later in the day - 70 miles away - and that will have a petrol station open. However, it's a problem for a group of other bikes heading for Ullapool, some of whom are really low. A couple of them go to a nearby cafe and manage to find the owner and get him to open the pump specially for them, which he does grudgingly and then if they pay cash only and all fill up on one operation of the pump. Anyway, we take advantage to top up as well since all the hard work was done already and give our tenners to the 'gang leader'. Funnily enough a car joins the end of the queue but gets his marching orders from the garage owner!! Good of him to help the guys out but he could have done it with a smile. Onwards and halfway around Loch Eribol Nige suddenly takes a left and we're stoppin for a tea break at a place in some guys garden that looks like a converted garage. Nice enough ex steelworker from Ponty running it and he seems pleased for the excuse to have a conversation, but he's a bit slow with the beans on toast which takes nearly half an hour to make. Never mind, we spend the time chatting to a lady who's cycling all around scotland on her own & camping wild where she can.

We eventually get our order, eat up and head for Tongue and then turn south for Lairg and then NWish along Loch Shinn and back to Inchnadamph. I was bored stiff on the road from Tongue to Lairg (A836) but the other two seemed to like it! Stopped at the ruins of Ardveck Castle near the hostel and spent a good hour looking around - stunning evening again, and great views across the loch.

Spring Highland Tour day 3 - a free ride

Heading up to our favourite hostel at Inchnadamph today for two nights to use as a base for exploring further north. Weather is sunshine & blue skies early on and we've got slightly different routes - Al's going via Connan ferry and the other two doubling back up Glenfinnan and the plan is to meet up at the Cluanie Inn around midday.

Rain clouds gathering as I approach Ardgour for the ferry-blue skies & sun one minute but it starts to rain as we board, and then really tips it down on the way over - heaviest we've had so far and I sit there waiting for the ticket collector to collect the fare, but we get to the other side before he gets to me and his mate waves me off - free ride!!

Rain all the way into Fort William, but the riding gear is all o.k and I'm dry, got the weird crab claw looking overgloves on and they're brilliant. Pull in to fill up with fuel in Fort William and guess who's there? - Nige & Steve - so the intrepid trio are back in formation and off we go next stop Cluanie Inn as the rain shower stops. The other two say it's been dry the way they came.

Nige gets there ten minutes or so before the other two who have taken a planned little detour. We grab a table and decide to have soup & baked potatoes for lunch - Nige says he's having soup & coffee and pops off to the toilet. Al decides to have the same and orders Niges as well for him. Next thing, a coffee is plonked on the table virtually straight away and then Nige comes back. 'Ordered your soup and coffee for you' says Al - 'already sorted that whilst waiting for you' says Nige. So, Nige gets two soups and Al gets two coffees. as it's too late to cancel the order apparently.

Suitably replete, we turn head off and turn right just after Eilan Donnan to go over towards Torridon and Ullapool. We meet the the rain again at Ullapool so take a bit longer filling up at the petrol station as do a number of other bikers so it gets a little crowded under the canopy.

It's only about 30 miles to Inchnadamph and we get there for around 17:00.

Spring Highland Tour day 2 - black isle & commandos

Start the day with going up and over the Lecht to Tomintoul where we stop for breakfast at the old fire station cafe. Full of bacon & egg baps its over to Dufftown, Banff and into Portsoy on the coast. What a quant little place the old harbour area is - stopped for a coffee and mooched around for about an hour.

The Black Isle next to see the lighthouse at the point near Fortrose, then we double back to Inverness and down the east side of Loch Ness to Fort William. Now, I've been past the Commando Monument at Spean Bridge many times but never stopped - so today we do and it's a spectacularily clear evening with really clear views to Ben Nevis.

So far the weather has been reasonable and we've dodged the showers, Heading now for Glenuig via Glenfinnan, where we're staying at the Glenuig Inn. There's building work ongoing and the bunkhouse isn't ready so we have been upgraded to the holiday chalets and very nice they are too!! Downside is theres no draught beer only bottled. The other dodgy thing about Glenuig is the deep gravel on the car park - on a bike its like driving through sand with wheelspins everywhere and a bit disconcerting.

Spring Highland Tour day 1 - off we go

What was planned as a relatively swift 4 day solo jaunt around the Borders and Dumfries/Galloway turned into a 6 day grand tour with two others once Nige had decided he could get off the island for a few days and Steve found he couldn't resist.

As usual, A1 to Scotch Corner thenover the A66 to meet Nige at Southwaite services. Me & Steve have lunch at the greasy spoon at Stainmore Top - double egg, chips, beans, mug of coffee and two slices of bread for £4 - don't know how they do it.

So off to the very far north with Braemar bunkhouse as the first overnight stop. Going past Spittal of Glenshee theres a herd of about 30 red deer just coming down off the hills, but thats not the last we see of these beasts this trip.
The bikes will be secure tonight as Nige has bought a new chain & lock - its big enough to anchor a battleship and weighs about 13kg!!

Wales day 2

After yesterdays reasonable weather, set off from Cross Hands for Llantwit Major in pouring rain - 45 miles of motorway spray etc but the gear held up and dry as a bone. Thought my trousers were letting in but it turns out its water pooling in my bike seat. The covering has a basket weave effect and I reckon it traps the water a bit more than a smooth finish.
Usk and Monmouth next, then over to Worcester and then home. Set the sat nav to favour minor roads after Worcester which was interesting - took me through Coughton Ford amongst others.

The thing with fords is that you're never sure how deep they are, but you do know they can be very slippery - plenty of green slime on this one! Parked up and decided to wait to watch the next car go through - had a good 5 minutes wait before a range rover went through and made a really big splash. Still couldn't really see how deep it was and I wasn't about to wade out to the middle to find out. That got me thinking, so I went and had a look at the adjacent footbridge which looked a possibility on the bike. I'm stood on the bridge and I hear a bike approaching - its a youth on a Honda C90 and he's straight through no bother, although I think he showed off as it did cough a bit as he came out and the splash soaked his jeans & trainers. So, the big jessy on his big trail bike plucks up the courage and through he goes. I guess its about 6" deep as the front brake discs are just getting a dipping. Get a bit fed up of country back roads with gravel and grass up the centre of them shortly after that so head home asap.

Sun comes out at Nottingham and get home at 4 o'clock in time to vote in the next lot of crooked, selfish, grasping control freaks.

Another 350 mile racked up today, so a new back tyre will needed after next weeks Highland Invasion. Not a bad little trip over the two days, and 15 RBR landmarks in the bag - only 74 more to go.

In deepest Wales

A change of plan, the GS gets a run out as the Pan steering feeling not right again. reasonably clear weather until élan valley going toward Aberystwyth when it went all misty and wet with visibility down to about 50yards. Cracking road from Lampeter to Haverfordwest -a475,b4332, b4329. Been to some nice little towns-Tregaron,Lampeter ,cenarth,
Ten rbr landmarks in the bag, and having an earlyish night at the Cross Hands travelodge- booked in advance and got a £19 deal, bargain.
420 miles today, this blog entry done on the iPhone (connection is via edge as tlodge wireless is not free- unbelievable in this day and age). All in all a succesful day.

Off to Wales

Off to Wales again for a couple of days - cutting across the middle, then along the south coast.
The bit of the south west corner from Milford Have to Port Talbot is new territory for me, never been there so that should be interesting. Doing a few RBR landmarks as I go, as ever a good excuse for a ride about. Overnight in Cross Hands (travelodge £19 deal) and about 850 miles for the round trip. The Pan gets an outing again, as the GS is getting a spin around Scotland end of next week for an early Highland Invasion with Steve & Nige.
Going to try and do the Welsh trip report solely on the Iphone, so watch this space.

A welcoming sign on a shop door......

Just found this on my iphone - taken in Amsterdam last month and nowhere near the red light district. I guess I lost something in the translation.

Invasion of Holland Day 4, 5 & 6

Day 4, Friday morning sees me at Jan van Dam's to get the head bearings sorted. Jan wheels the Pan into the workshop and we get the top yoke off, bearings regreased and finally re-adjusted after about 35 minutes - job done.

"What do I owe you Jan?" says I

"No charge" says Jan, "happy to help out, enjoy your trip"

What a gesture from a genuinely nice guy - bottle of whisky on the way!!


Heading to Amsterdam today, and the bike won't turn a wheel until Sunday.

Usual drinking frenzy with brother in Amsterdam Friday - Local bar Cafe de Zuid, then up town to a few brown cafes we can't remember, into the Jordan and De Twee Prinsen, Cafe Thijssen, bar I can't remember, then a good session in Molly Malones where we met big Chris amongst others! I can only just remember leaving and dragging a staggering bro home. This lead to a subdued and steady Saturday which involved a lie in to 11:00am, a gentle session for a few hours watching the football in Cocos off the Rembrandts Plein, back to Kens via a couple in De Groene Olifant followed by pizza and a few more beers at home watching a weird cartoon on DVD - Free Jimmy.


Left Kens in Amsterdam Sunday morning at 08:30 heading for the Channel tunnel, arriving 12:45 and get the train leaving at 13:20, getting back to Lincoln for 16:30.


Overall a really good week, and approx 1200 miles done on the old Pan which, apart from the head bearings, was faultless and now comfy again following the fitting of bar risers to get the posture more upright. Not bad for a 15 year old bike.

Invasion of Holland Day 3

Arnhem today, and first off its to one of the drop zones - DZY - at Ginkelse Heide about 7 miles from the bridge!!! A large expanse of sandy heath with an Airborne memorial at the entrance to a parking area. This is where 4th Para Brigade under Brigadier Hackett landed.

As you can see, a beautiful day - sun, blue skies and me sweating in my bike gear big time, so its down to t shirts again and jacket vents open, and off we go to the airborne museum at the Hartenstein. This was really good and very informative with walk through dioramas of the street fighting as well as exhibits of equipment, uniforms etc. Well worth the entrance fee and time.

Amazing to see the pictures of this place when it was the heart of the battle of Oosterbeek - graphic pictures of slit trenches and mortar pits in the grounds.

Next on to the bridge itself - parked up next to what was signposted as the Jacob Groenewoud Park in the shadow of the bridge. This had a gun, a propellor, and various other artifacts, none more entertaining than an old chap called Samuel Rubens who took me around all the exhibits and talked about them and the battle claiming he had witnessed it all as a ten year old as his house was one of those at the bottom of the bridge ramp! He had a maroon jacket with all the badges and red para beret on and looked the part. This I took with pinch of salt, and even mentioned that I thought his name was Jewish sounding. He said it was because he is a jew, and his family had to claim to be italian when the Germans occupied Arnhem. Very interesting and entertaining and all done without a claim for any money as he is an official guide. I've since googled him and it seems he's 'kosher'! The people you meet eh.

Only 65 miles in total today - I do more on my round trip to work! My excuse is alot of time off the bike today, plus an early finish at 15:30.

The Pan's head bearings have loosened and are knocking and giving that low speed wobble when you take your hand off the bar, so thats a bit disconcerting. I blame those crappy Belgian roads. If I had the tools, then in 45 minutes I could have them tightened up. So popped into Beno scooter dealers to see if they could help out - the lads in there said they were scooter mechanics and didn't know about bikes, but one lad asked if I knew how to do it then I could show them what to do and get it done later that day. The two of them then lapsed into dutch and then said there was a bike dealer around the corner, try him and if no luck then come back as a last resort no problem - hows that for helping someone off the street at the drop of a hat?

Round to the bike dealers and its not a problem to do but he's all very apologetic that he can't do it that minute as theres a bit of a workload. This bike shop is quite a swanky independant - Jan van Dam. The guy I talked to was Jan himself and he was a bit miffed not to help asap. I said its not a problem, I can bring it in tomorrow morning as I'm staying in Elst. His faced beamed, and he said "o.k, 6 o'clock - joking, have a lie in, leasurely breakfast and bring it in at ten and we'll do it while you wait". Can't ask for more I guess.

Invasion of Holland Day 2

Get to breakfast at the Formule1 just in time as the coach loads of east european students decend like locusts, nabbing everything in site from the buffet for later. Ah well, kids - but the adults in charge didn't bat an eyelid. Must be getting a miserable old git to let things like that piss me off - after all its not my food they're having.

After a bit of research last night for todays route, I'm going near a German WW2 cemetery at Lommel - this one has 40,000 German soldiers in it, two per cross - astounding. Set in woods, very quite & peaceful (aren't they all?) and I'm the only one there.

On to Joes Bridge - the start of the Garden bit of 'Market Garden'. A 5km trip west along the canal from the modern dual carriage way.

This is where Michael Caine started from in the Bridge Too Far film - single track road, straight, between wooded areas filled with Germans and their guns! Through Valkensward, and around Eindhoven to the site of the Son bridge (in the film blown up just before Elliot Gould got there). Had a right palaver getting there as alot of road works and changes around Eindhoven meant the sat nav was useless and had to rely on intuition and following diversions. Onto and over the Veghel bridge, and onto Grave Bridge.

This is the 504th PIR memorial on the south side of the crossing and the bridge was renamed the John S Thompson Bridge after the American lieutenant who commanded the unit that captured it. Turn right just after the bridge and you come across this monument of rusting parachutes marking a landing zone in the fields on the way to Groesbeek.

There was a couple of workmen doing some work on the memorial site entrance, so said good day to them to be sociable and got a right ignorant grunt from one of them. His mate seemed embarrased about whatever he said and went onto explain about the monument whilst the other twat turned his back and mumbled away in dutch - wanker. If things had turned out different we could all have been speaking German I was tempted to say. Strange to get such a reaction especially at a memorial, unless 'good day' in dutch means I think you're a c**t. You can sense it pissed me off.

After riding through Groesbeek, its into Nijmegen and the rush hour for the last bridge of the day - the biggest and most impressive looking so far.

Total of 185 miles for the day and Elst is only 15 minutes away. I'm staying at the Wapen van Elst for the next two nights which is very nice indeed. When I asked where I could park the bike, the guy on reception took me to the back door and said leave it here, theres a canopy to stop it getting wet and its just beneath your room window - sorted.